As the food business goes global, the range and nature of
consumer anxieties grows ever more complex. While consumer
stomachs become recipients of lethal cocktail of chemicals,
the food market profits skyrocket in direct proportion.
For this, nobody else is to blame except the Indian consumer,
who has yet to abjure the lure of gimmicky packaging of
global products and become discerning enough to turn her
gaze homewards to local, seasonal and organic produce. If
one lets the seasons guide one's consumption, an Indian
not only follows the food principles of Ayurveda, but also
routinely observes the culinary practices woven into Indian
food traditions.
When to sow and when to reap, how to cook or consume, this
knowledge has been circulating in Indian kitchen practices
for generations. For the consumer, the food methodologies
prevailing in the field and kitchen are governed by regional
realities of production and access. These, however, are
under immediate threat of being sidelined by the pushy food
market. Thus, where you earlier saw the coconut rule the
South, and mustard permeate every aspect of food consumption
in North India, you can currently watch these two stalwarts
being jostled around by a range of imported, nondescript
edible oils, making tall health claims, not at all substantiated
by either experience or experiment.
The new concept of 'slow-food', in the West, encapsulates
a holistic approach to production and consumption of food.
It has been described as an "intersection of ethics
and pleasure, of ecology and gastronomy", but the question
is: how is this new-found insight any different from our
food knowledge of yore?
Adding to the already confused and confusing food scenario
is the raging controversy which surrounds GM food concerns.
By now it is very clear that much of the pro-GM research
and legislation is funded and promoted by agri-business
lobbyists. However, regulating genetic modification in food
should ideally aim at economic benefits for all stakeholders.
We have all come to believe that science and technology
have a momentum of their own and have earned an inviolable
right to advance, while riding roughshod over human priorities.
What we need to understand is, that new genetic technologies
are so far reaching in their social and environmental implications,
that it is imperative that we all get involved in any decisions
being taken in this regard.
Even while we plan a Food Safety and Standards Bill, which,
as of now, appears to be loaded in favour of the industry
rather than the consumers, we should safeguard the interests
of future generations by preparing for the emerging scientific
and technological challenges in the sector.
Neutraceuticals, Nanotechnology, Smart-breeding, besides
genetically modified foods are all hovering on the horizon
to overtake our markets, while we dither and debate endlessly.
Our so called 'unorganised' food sector, which in actuality
is carrying forward our local, food traditions needs to
be safeguarded as well, before it is road-rollered out of
existence under the merciless juggernaut of market forces.
Food is the storehouse of the panch-tattvas, harmonizing
the cosmic principles of all life in itself. When we produce
and consume food, we mobilize the rasa of life through the
cosmic chain. When we pollute and tinker with these panch-bhootas
we do so at our own peril, because we interfere with the
cosmic memory held by the genetic code — the DNA.
"May the universe never
abuse food.
Breath is food,
the body eats food,
this body rests on breath.
Breath rests on the body,
food is resting on food."
|